Lake Eyre

There has been great interest in our Lake Eyre tours, and the first two of a number of departures have now been completed - (23rd & 30th May). In addition to the many planes departing Marree airstrip for flights over Lake Eyre, the town is also abuzz with building to accommodate the big increase in tourist numbers.
 

Hotel cabins nearing completion

Marree Hotel has placed cabins on the former Oasis Cafe site, and on the other side of town Lyall is busy completing work on cabins adjoining his Roadhouse. It is only in the last couple of months extensions to the roadhouse and dining room were completed!






The Lake Eyre Yacht Club is gearing up for it's Regatta on Lake Killamperpunna , Cooper Creek on 10th to 15th July. The Event is on Etadunna Pastoral Lease, about 140km up the Birsaville Track north of Marree.
The day before the Regatta (July 9) is the Marree Australian Camel Cup meeting  - an annual event organised each year to raise funds to support essential services in Marree. It is also a way of recognising the amazing contributions made by the Afghan Cameleers of the Marree Ghantown.

 It was a delight to have the descendant of Apatoonganie - (a homestead near Mulka on the Birdsville Track) on our first trip in May.  Like a number of the Track Stations, it  was abandoned long ago, and today the scant remains and parched surroundings are starkly evocative of hard, lonely living and eventual failure in the face of overwhelming odds.

The Sapphire Coast

Home again after two trips to the Sapphire Coast - The Sapphire Coast, also known as the Bega Valley, is the most southerly coastal region in NSW, and is centered around the Eden and Bega area.
Our 8 day trips travel to Portland and along the Great Ocean Road to Apollo Bay, Lorne and Queenscliffe, where we take the ferry across Bass Strait to Sorrento and the Mornington Peninsula.
Beyond Lakes Entrance we make several detours - including a visit to Meetung - a small and stylish coastal town situated near the Gippsland Lakes, then  Malacoota (including Gipsy Point).

Part of the appeal of Mallacoota is that it sprawls. There is no sense that everyone is clinging to a tiny area. This may have something to do with its combination of two lakes - the Top Lake and Bottom Lake - and its inlets, cliffs, and beaches. I should mention that despite keeping an eye out for a Water Dragon, known to inhabit the area around Gipsy Point, no sighting of the reptile was made.
Ah! but we did find the Otway Black Snail on our Otway tree top walk earlier in our journey!

One of the best attractions in Eden is the Cat Balou - a 16 metre aluminium catamaran, specifically built for whale watching and sight seeing. We took a 2 hour Twofold Bay Discovery cruise, and apart from interesting commentary on the history of the area, saw Boyd's Tower, Seahorse Inn at Boydtown, Edrom Lodge and whaling station sites.


An afternoon trip enabled us to sample oysters at Perimbula Beach, Cheese at the Bega Heritage Centre in Bega, and a great dinner in the Merimbula RSL !

Our return to Adelaide was through the Gippsland towns of Port Albert to Meeniyan, then on the ferry to Queenscliffe. After an overnight stop in Camperdown, we continued through Mortlake and Dunkeld to
Naracoorte and the Coorong.

Some points of interest we found on the trips:

A short distance out of Penola is Father Woods Park - named after Father Julian Edmund Tenison Woods, who often stayed with Donald and Catherine McArthur on the original Limestone Station, where he is said to have meditated, prepared sermons and celebrated Mass under a large red gum known as the "Father Woods Tree". A number of sculptures were added to the Park in 2010 and they attract many passing visitors travelling along the nearby Riddoch Highway.




The stunning coast from Portland to Port Fairy and on to Port Campbell  next day, and apart from magnificent scenery, there were beautifully preserved buildings, lakes and volcanic plains to explore!


The Otway Tree Top Walk offers  a 600 metre walk through beautiful warm temperate rainforest - 25 metres above the forest floor.  The walk commences at the visitor centre and descends gently to the entry structure and onto the steel trussed tree walk.

On the first trip, we found the distinctive, endemic and carnivorous Otway Black Snail.





Harrow -  (the oldest inland town in Victoria), is a small and picturesque hamlet of 150 people on the banks of the Glenelg River in Victoria's Wimmera district.Part of the town is situated on a hill overlooking the Glenelg River Valley. A steep and scenic road leads down to the main street which has a number of historic buildings including a log gaol, Hermitage Hotel and Kolmar House.

The first international cricket team to play for Australia was a team of Aborigines who went to England in 1868, and team members included Johnny Mullagh  (Unaarrimin). 
14 wins later, several against some of the best sides in the country, early perceptions changed forever.
The team were generally well received in England, and WG Grace, the father of English cricket, was even moved to say they showed "conspicuous skill at the game".
The Johnny Mullagh Cricket Centre has been developed by the Harrow community as a means of celebrating the story of the 1868 Aboriginal cricket team and the fascinating history of the township.
 
 The town of Harrow also has a sense of humour! -  not the least of which is the "Bones yard" which has an interesting assortment of headstones!

And finally,  Lake Bullen Merrie - a volcanic Maar near the town of Camperdown Victoria. A maar is a broad, usually circular flat floored volcanic crater with steep inner walls and surrounding rim built of rock materials blown out of the crater during volcanic eruptions. 

Most of Australia's maars are found in the southern part of Victoria's western district with more than 30 located between Colac and Warrnambool. 
The lake is stocked with Atlantic salmon, Australian bass (to 1.5kg) and brown and rainbow trout.
An unsealed road runs around the western edge of the Lake and provides a vantage point for views. 

Kangaroo Island 22nd March 2011

Leaving Cape Jervis on an overcast morning, Kangaroo Island appeared soon appeared in front of the ferry, a ray of sunshine highlighting our destination - Penneshaw! A morning tea stop at the Visitor Centre provided opportunity to see  Frenchman's Rock - this is the original inscription carved on a piece of rock by one of Captain Baudin's crew aboard the Le Geographe in 1802.
(A replica is found in the shelter at Hog Bay).
Recharged, we made our way to Cape Willoughby, and an inspection of the Light-station. - the first lighthouse to be erected in South Australia, lighting the Backstairs Passage between Kangaroo Island and the mainland.
Unfortunately much of the aesthetic appeal of this light was lost in 1974 when the lantern room was replaced. It is interesting this lighthouse established in 1852 was originally known as the Sturt Light after Captain Charles Sturt who at the time was Treasurer of South Australia and was instrumental in establishing the light.Another point of interest is the bulge in the side of the tower. It seems that this is not due to deterioration, but came about in the original construction.


Any one  who has been on our Kangaroo Island trip would remember we have a Lunch stop at Brown Beach, on the Dudley Peninsula. It was a surprise to find the facilities are being upgraded with a new toilet block, picnic tables and large shelter now with a wall on one side to the prevailing winds! One of our group was the first person to use the new toilets!
 

To American River and unfortunately we were a couple of weeks too early to taste the oysters.
Nevermind,. a walk along the beach of Nepean Bay was timed perfectly - just before a light shower of rain.

The Wisteria Motel has new ownership and has been re-badged as the Kangaroo Island Seaside Inn.
The father/son management team  of Chris and Alex welcomed us and made sure we were comfortable in our accommodation.

Taking the Playford Highway next day, we visited Cape Borda Light station and National Parks Ranger Mick answered all our questions - including why the lighthouse is rectangular rather than the usual round design.!
After enjoying Mick's hospitality, we took the Shackle Road to Flinders Chase National Park, and a great lunch which included burgers/wraps with the locally produced Ildoura Wild Fruits Tomato Sauce!


Remarkable Rocks proved to be it's usual windy but awesome experience, and we delighted in  the New Zealand Fur Seals at Cape Decoudic.

I appreciated the advice of National Parks Ranger Don at Seal Bay next day. It was a little cool and the Sea Lions were taking shelter - many of them in the sand dunes between the visitor centre and beach.
We chose the self guided board walk, and saw many groups of sea lions - including a family right next to the boardwalk!!

We had an enjoyable lunch at  Kaiwarra Food Barn - the gateway to Seal Bay. This is the closest accommodation and restaurant to the Seal Bay Conservation Park, and the staff do a great job to make you feel welcome.We visited Emu Eucalyptus Distillery and Clifford's  Honey Farm (Honey icecream yum!!) before travelling the Old Bullock Track to Reeves Point and the site of South Australia's first settlement.

The North Coast Road passes George's 400 lights "Castle" and the old Wisanger School 1885-1945.
We stopped off to have a close look at the school- particularly the way in which it has been preserved.
The Rules for Teachers 1872 was a little discerning!!
After an impromptu school lesson we were on our way again to Stokes Bay, (The Pirates in the "secret tunnel" were away that day) Snelling Beach and lunch (well packed by Rogers Deli Kingscote) at the very scenic Western River Cove


I must mention our dinner that evening at Cape Jervis Tavern. The service is excellent, the food superb and having an meal here means the traffic from the Sea Link ferry has dispersed by the time you are ready to drive the 100kms back to Adelaide!

Now- 4 days home then off to Mungo National Park!

Wilson's Promontory 6th March 2011

Promontory: a natural elevation.....(especially a rocky one that juts out into the sea)

I always enjoy the trip to Wilson's Promontory - possibly because of the wonderful contrast in scenery during the 9 days. This trip was a little different in the fact our normal route through the Grampians National Park was closed due to damage caused by recent rains. In lieu of the Zumsteins Road, we chose the Mt Zero Road into Halls Gap. This road is unsealed, but in good condition, and a gentle breeze kept the smoke from a prescribed burn off well away from us.

After a night in Halls Gap, we visited Lake Bellfield . This reservoir impounds the water of Fyans Creek to augment the water supply to the Wimmera and Mallee regions. Capacity of storage 63,000 acre feet.
It was opened on the 6th of October, 1969.

 The road beyond Lake Bellfield to Dunkeld was closed, so we opted to take the Pomonal Road to the east of the Grampians, with some great views, including Mt William.
We did try a couple of side roads which eventually ended in closures, but it was all a good experience.



At Camperdown we drove out to Lake Bullen Merri and took a drive around the western edge of the Lake.

The numerous lakes in the Camperdown district, like the mountains, are related to volcanic activity. Some, such as Lake Purrumbete, Lake Bullen Merri and Lake Gnotuk lie in volcanic craters or maars and are fed largely by underground water. The larger lakes including Lake Colongulac and Lake Corangamite (Victoria's largest lake) occupy depressions which are partly a result of overlapping lava flows that have blocked or diverted streams.
These depressions are now internal drainage basins with little river inflow or no outlet. Evaporation has concentrated salts in the lakes and some are now much saltier than sea water. The size and water quality of these lakes varies in response to long term climatic changes, and there is clear evidence that Lake Corangamite was once much more extensive.

And so to Meeniyan - via the Quuenscliife Ferry to Sorrento and the Mornington Peninsula.
This was our "base " for 4 nights, during which time we explored Whisky Beach, Squeaky Beach and Tidal River on Wilson's Promomontory. We even found Turton Falls on the way home through Foster!
Another day trip started at Shallow Inlet and around Waratah Bay to Walkerville where we visited the old Lime Kiln ruins and cemetery, and on to Inverloch, Cape Patterson and Wonthaggi.
Tarra Bulga National Park was the destination next day, and after visiting Agnes Falls (which were flowing very well), we made a couple of detours to Port Welshpool and Port Albert
.

Since the early 1840s, when Europeans first came to Victoria's southern coasts, cattle have grazed Snake Island.Sheltered from the pounding waves of Bass Strait by Wilson's Promontory, the 3500 hectare island holds a special place in the cultural and economic life of South Gippsland.
Traditional grazing practices stretching back more than 100 years are maintained, with cattle driven to the island across the tidal shallows on seasonal winter and summer agistment.
 When it's time for them to return to the mainland the call goes out for keen graziers and horse riders to volunteer for the muster and then walk the animals at low tide across the shallows to Port Welshpool.

About 200 head are agisted there on a per head value over summer and about 500 are taken to the island for winter. They are all mustered and taken off the island by September 1.


By the time we finished lunch in Tarra Bulga National Park, a shower of rain had stopped, and we were able to take one of the walking trails to the suspension bridge over the valley.

One of the local residents (right)  came to say G'day!
Our return to Meenityan was via Traralgon, the main commercial centre for the Latrobe Valley, and home to most of Victoria's power generation facilities.

 It is interesting to drive along the  Cape Otway light station road to see tan area of gnarly coastal eucalypts, and even a koala walking alomg the side of the road!
Although mist prevented a view of the 12 Apostles in the Port Campbell National Park, it lifted as we journeyed further along the Great Ocean Road, and Loch Ard Gorge, London Bridge and the Bay of Islands were spectacular.
As usual, we stayed at the Skenes Creek Motor Lodge, and new owners Lorna and Trevor made us most welcome.
A night's stay in Mt Gambier, and we returned home through the Coorong, stopping at Policeman's Point to buy some fresh Coorong Mullet!!
(Jenny cooked it for tea that night!)

A journey to Dare's Hill

William Dare was the first white man to stand on a high and craggy hill known later as Dares Hill in the northern Flinders Ranges. Near the foot of the hill he built his homestead among dense woodland by the Piltimittiappa Creek.

Our journey to this interesting part of the mid north began last Tuesday when we "Travelled in Goyder's Footsteps" .After visiting the superbly preserved historic town of Mintaro, we entered  the Clare Valley through Sevenhill and Clare then a small detour to Spalding, Gulnare and Gladstone.

At Laura we found the statue of C J Dennis (the Australian poet who was born in Auburn, and spent much of his boyhood in Laura), was missing from it's usual place outside the Dick Biles Gallery. It has been moved to the median strip in the main street and now welcomes visitors entering the Town from the Gladstone side.
We later learned that it was Dick Bile's wish the statue be relocated in the main street, and he was able to see this come true a few days before he passed away.

On to Appila, and although the main street was closed for road widening, we were able to see the excellent murals on the CFS building next to the Hotel.

.


One of the great things about touring is finding the unexpected!
It was nearing lunch time, and we were on the lookout for a quiet place to stop, and we found it at Appilla Springs, a short distance out of Appila on the Tarcowie Road.

The local people have done a fantastic job in putting picnic facilities there without disturbing the natural beauty and tranquility of the place.

At  Pekina, we made a detour to Magnetic Hill, and yes! - it still works, and the vehicle was seemingly rolling backwards up the incline to the large "magnet" positioned near the roadside.

Arriving in Peterborough, we had time to settle into our motel before dinner,then at around 8.15pm went to Steamtown to see the Laser and Light show from an historic Transcontinental carriage, now transformed into a viewing car and placed on the 85 foot long turntable. This magic light and sound spectacle tells the story of Steamtown and the creation of Peterborough, about Railways in South Australia and the history and personal stories associated with it.

This is a fantastic attraction, and definitely worth a visit. During the day there are guided tours of the workshop and locos.

Before commencing the Dares Hill drive out of Terowie, we detoured to Hiles Lagoon.
An aticle in the February edition of the Terowie Enterprise, mentioned that one outcome of the recent rain event was the filling of Hiles Lagoon. According to local, Bob Fisher, this is the first time since 1969 that the lake has looked so good, having been dry for many years. It was in days gone by, used by the locals of Terowie for their recreation, boating and picnics.
We were keen to see "the lake", and took the Munjibbie Road to venture close to it.

There is a very good publication published by the Regional Council of Goyder, and available through the Burra Visitor Centre. It is titled "Travel in Goyder's Footsteps", and apart from comprehensive notes on the Northern and Southern Tourist Driving Trails, it has a distances and a very clear map for the Dares Hill drive.
Although the directions start from Burra and travel to Terowie, there is no problem in reversing the route.

We had a morning tea stop at Ketchowla Station, and followed the road through Mallet and Piltimittiappa to Mt Bryan East and the cottage of Sir Hubert Wilkins.




Not wishing to take the sealed through Hallett, we continued through  Mongolata to the back of Burra.
A great trip with great company!!